Food justice is everybody’s fight. Let’s ensure access to healthy food for all in Milwaukee

We all deserve to eat with dignity and choice. That statement might feel like a given to most, but it’s not the reality for Northwest Side and greater Milwaukee residents, who are facing food apartheid due to store closings, systemic and structural racism and economic injustices. Over the past year, five Pick ‘n Save locations, two Aldi stores and a Sentry Foods closed down in Milwaukee.

Food apartheid is systemic, racialized, and economic segregation of food access, where low-income communities and communities of color are intentionally denied access to healthy, affordable food. Unlike a food desert, which means that this lack of access happens naturally, food apartheid highlights that inequities are caused by deliberate policy, structural racism, and disinvestment. 

After talking with our neighbors on the Northwest Side through visioning sessions and other strategy meetings, food insecurity was the theme that kept coming up. The African American Roundtable (AART) heard directly from neighbors who struggled to feed their families healthy and affordable food because of the limited options on the Northwest Side. That’s what compelled AART to launch the Feed the Change MKE campaign. Systemic change to guarantee food access for all residents cannot wait. 

Our demand is simple: We’re asking the City of Milwaukee to invest an additional $1 million in the Healthy Food Establishment Fund, formerly known as the Milwaukee Fresh Food Fund. 

Two former beneficiaries shared the impact of the former fund at our recent campaign townhall, highlighting the necessity of community involvement and local control of our food system. Maurice Wince, owner of the Sherman Park Grocery Store, shared a story about becoming an integral part of the community when he was able to welcome a customer’s child into his store for safety. Annia Leonard, who used to deliver farm produce throughout Milwaukee County on the former Good Food Bus, said children “really got involved” when they ran up to the bus to learn about it.

Both Maurice and Annia shared that the fund helped them provide fresh food to communities in need in addition to building community. This exemplifies why we believe that these funds should be allocated to establishing locally-owned and operated grocery stores, community gardens, farmers markets and other food access points desired by residents. We also demand nutritional education programs for food providers and their consumers.

Milwaukee, like many US cities, is facing a food access problem. The Pick ‘n Save stores that closed abruptly on the North Side said it was due to theft. We knew better, and data uncovered during an investigation by the Milwaukee Journal Sentinel proved us right. This raises questions about the deeper issues and the need for clearer solutions. 

Recently, there was a $2.8 million investment announced to support food justice in Milwaukee, which includes a $400,000 commitment to the Healthy Food Establishment Fund. This is a great first step. 

Residents shouldn’t have to depend on convenience stores and fast food restaurants to feed their families. Access to fresh and healthy food is crucial for good health and for preventing chronic diseases like obesity, diabetes, and heart disease, which plague many of our communities. Fresh fruits, vegetables, whole grains, and lean proteins are vital parts of a balanced diet. Making sure all residents, particularly those on the Northwest Side, can access these foods is essential for building a healthier community and lowering healthcare costs related to diet-related illnesses.

Food insecurity in Milwaukee is everybody’s problem. Even if you do not face this personally, there’s a good chance that one of your friends, neighbors, co-workers or even family members do. According to statistics from Feeding America, more than 138,000 people in Milwaukee County are food insecure, or 14.9% of residents. Milwaukee County has the second highest rate of food insecurity in Wisconsin, higher than both statewide and national rates.

AART is calling on city leaders to listen to Northwest Side residents and focus on investing in local food infrastructure and developing policies that support fair food access. This also means addressing larger issues like housing, transportation, and economic inequality. By pushing for broad policy changes and backing community-driven initiatives, Milwaukee can work toward a more fair and just food system for all.

Markasa Tucker-Harris is the Executive Director of the African American Roundtable in Milwaukee.